A Zambian odyssey

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe – one of the seven natural world wonders  –  was on globetrotter Tanushree’s list of “must experience” destinations. Nothing could stop her from seeing the smoke that thunders

From more than two kilometres, as we turned from the Livingstone Airport towards our hotel, we could see the rising curtain of spray that looked like smoke and mingled with the clouds across an azure sky.

“That is the smoke that thunders,” explained our guide. “We call it Mosi-oa-Tunya in the Kololo language.”

We were as awestruck as Dr David Livingstone must have been when he first laid his eyes on the Mosi-oa-Tunya in 1855. Not surprisingly, an entry in his diary read ‘on sights as beautiful as this, angels in their flight must have gazed’. In my diary, however, I noted just two words – awesome and spectacular.

A few minutes later we checked into a hotel that stood right on the bank of the mighty Zambezi River. Even as I walked to the sun deck of the hotel, I caught sight of a half a dozen monkeys loping around the lawns in the company of a couple of zebras who were busy grazing on the lush green grass.

“Welcome to Zambia!” said the bartender, offering me a menu as I scrambled for the ringside seat to catch the reflection of a dying sun on the waves of Zambezi in my camera.

Minutes later, a fast boat raced across my line of vision, sending a spray of water flying in my direction and it made the loveliest picture I had ever seen. For the next one hour I had eyes and ears only for the beauty of the rippling river shadowed by the island across it. Darkness brought with it a hundred candles and a delightful feast in the open restaurant across the river.

The next morning I woke from a restful slumber and pulled the curtains apart. Right there, in the garden, stood a giraffe munching on the green leaves of an acacia tree.

Beyond the giraffe flows the Zambezi, gentle and unthreatening. As I enjoy my breakfast, the monkeys revisit. One of them makes a dash for the sugar pot before me and before I can say ‘hey’, it has dashes off with a whole lot of them, upsetting the jar. A guard makes his appearance and shoots off a few pebbles from his catapult. He is employed to ensure that the monkeys are kept at bay. Not that he has much success. They run in from all sides and too quick for him to chase. There are squeals and laughter as more monkeys succeed in stealing away toasts, fruits and sugar cubes from the tables.

“I stood riveted by the splendorous sight and the thundering sound of water as it cascaded down hundreds of metres to hit the bowels of the earth.”

I was still smiling as I made my way to the Victoria Falls, which was just a little distance away from my hotel. Even as the guide went into a long spiel about the data and details about the fall, I stood riveted by the splendorous sight and the thundering sound of water as it cascaded down hundreds of metres to hit the bowels of earth.

Right ahead stood a memorial for the World War I soldiers who had belonged to North Rhodesia, which was what Zambia was known as in those days. The statue of the Scottish explorer, David Livingstone, to whom the city owes its name, greeted us just as we were closing on the falls.

Here we were given a raincoat, an umbrella and a pair of waterproof shoes to wear as we went into the spray around the area that seemed like heavy rainfall.

The first reaction to the sight of the enormous water-curtain was it raged down was sheer awe. Just half a kilometre back I had seen the Zambezi flowing gently. Its sudden transformation into the thundering tyrant was too swift to register. The sheer magnitude of a two kilometre water wall thundering into the chasm underneath humbled me into silence. For the first few moments I forgot to take out my camera and shoot and when I did it was with unexplainable veneration to the glory of nature.

A sudden burst of sunshine brought the dancing rainbow in view and the glorious sight that left me speechless with wonder.

“The Falls don different hues at different times of the day, depending on the sun and light. It is pink and purple at one time, milky white at another,” Seepo, the guide informed me with pride. “The Mosi-oa-Tunya is the pride of Zambia.”

I couldn’t have agreed more to that statement.

“You can come here during a full moon night and catch the moonbow,” he informed.

Half an hour later, I was sitting in a small helicopter flying over the Victoria Falls, enjoying an aerial view. The pilot pointed out the bridge that connects Zambia with Zimbabwe and provided thrilling bungee drops for the adrenal junkies. I could spot a couple of brave hearts dangling from it.

That evening saw me cruising on a boat on the Zambezi River in company of equally enchanted tourists. It was a magical moment watching the sunset in a distance. A German woman seated next to me on the deck struck up a conversation. The first question she asked was if I had sprayed myself with a mosquito repellent. Honestly speaking I had forgotten all about it. She was quick to take out a spray-can and douse me with the repellent, all the time warning me about the dangers a mosquito bite could cause. I couldn’t care less. I think it was the Zambia magic working on me.

The loudspeaker blared information about the river and suddenly pulled up quite close to the bank where a multitude of birds were retiring for the night. Elsewhere we came across a pair of hippos submerged in the water, refusing to oblige us by surfacing from their cool hideout. A few crocs near a muddy bank treated us to a baleful glance, keeping us busy with our cameras.

The dinner on the cruise was as beautiful as it can get, with candles set on the tables laden with gourmet delights, with a pale moon for company. The magical interlude seemed straight out of a romantic book; one I didn’t ever want to end.

Reaching there
Singapore Airlines has regular flights to Johannesburg. From Johannesburg there are several airlines like the Zambian Airways and South African Airways that have regular flights to Livingstone.

Staying
One of the best places to stay at Livingstone is at the Royal Livingstone Hotel if you have deep pockets otherwise Zambezi Sun is a good option. The two hotels are situated on the bank of Zambezi River and the Victoria Falls is a short walk away, which gives you the opportunity of enjoying both the places at any time you wish to.

Activities
If you are an animal lover, take a safari to catch up on wildlife viewing. For the golf lovers there are opportunities to indulge in a game of golf while for the adrenaline junkies there is bungee jumping and white water rafting.

The cruise on River Zambezi is an excellent experience. The border between Zambia and Zimbabwe lies near the falls and day visitors can walk across to the other country without having to get a visa in advance. The falls crossing is open every day from 8 AM – 6 PM.

Shopping
Local handicrafts like masks and animals crafted out of wood are a great buy. Check out the grass baskets and warthog tooth carvings, while you are at it. There is also the African jewellery for those who love things exotic. The Craft Market in Mukuni village – where local artisans, craftsmen and carvers sell their wares – is a great place to visit for a great selection of wooden carvings and crafts. Be ready to bargain for the pieces you purchase!